South Cornwall - reckoned to be Britain's most beautiful and interesting
coastline - is a land of steep wooded rocky chines which lead inland from
the sea along stream and river valleys. Villages spill down these craggy
inlets to the water where there is often to be found an old fishing
harbour, always massively defended against the rolling Atlantic winter
storms, and in today's more gentle political climate usually home to
yachts and fishing boats, rather than the sea-reivers, smugglers and
wreckers of yore.
Mewing buzzards ride ladders of air above the craggy igneous Cornish
landscape, as farmers work their herds in what is the balmiest climate in
the British Isles, due to the gentle wash of the Gulf Stream along its
shores. The local history is rich: the Spanish Armada may have failed in
its mission, but South Cornwall saw the only successful invasion since
William the Conqueror when the Spaniards briefly invaded the county. The
little-known Stannary Parliament at nearby Liskeard, which gave the
tin-miners a large degree of self-rule, last sat in 1572, and the
picturesque and haunting ruins of tin-mines still dot the uncompromisingly
rugged but utterly beautiful landscape. The "Cornish Alps" are testimony
to the once-great china clay industry, and stories of the sea - lifeboat
heroes, sea-going villains and naval battles - dominate this once-remote
region. Surfing, crabbing, lobster-fishing and scuba-diving are now the
main activities in waters where revenue-men and smugglers and units of the
Royal Navy and Napoleon's fleet once contended with cutlass and cannon.